We arrived at the Algonquin Park Shall Lake ranger station (pass office) at about noon only to be greeted by the largest number of black flies I have seen in the 4 years I've been in Canada. Apparently the ranger knew what he was doing as he was wearing a really good bug jacket. I thought I could tough it out but all my tropical jungle experience did not help this day. "You picked the peak weekend for bugs," the ranger said.
Fortunately we only had a short paddle to the Kitty Lake cabin, which is in fact before the short 90 metres portage across to Kitty Lake from Farm Lake. The cabin is amazing inside. There are four bunk beds, a picnic table, a wood burning stove (which we did not use as it was way too warm), and enough space for two small tents (not that we were going to erect any). The black flies gave way to mosquitoes at sunset. Good thing we had a cabin and the drums we brought with us to entertain ourselves. Sunday was a little better for bugs as it was a little sunnier. But one finds them swarming in the shade away from the wind, as we did on the protected side of a point on Booth Lake that morning.
Showing posts with label algonquin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label algonquin. Show all posts
Sunday, June 04, 2006
Monday, May 22, 2006
Sunbeam Lake lives up to its name
On Saturday, we set off for Algonquin Park early with the rain still pouring down. When it did not get any better by the time we got to Tim Hortons at Renfrew, we were all prepared to get to Algonquin Park but not put our canoes into the water and maybe do something else instead.
We arrived at Canoe Lake at about noon. The rain had stopped, but the persistently overcast sky suggested that more might be to come. The wind had also subsided a little but it was still going to be a tough paddle upwind all the way to Sunbeam Lake. We decided to make a go of it. After all, the weather forecast was for sunshine on Monday.
The paddle up Canoe Lake was not easy (read: extremely difficult for novice paddlers) with the gusty North-westerly bearing down our way. Despite the bad weather, I was pretty confident about getting to the campsite by six. Exactly one year ago, we did a trip up to Littledoe Lake without much difficulty and Sunbeam Lake looks just a little further with two more portages through Vanishing Pond. Hopefully the pond will not vanish on us, but we were told that at this time of the year, water levels should be high enough for it to be navigable.
It wasn't much fun paddling in this weather, no fun at all. Overcast, gloomy, windy. Well, we got to the eastern end of Littledoe Lake and paddled into the creek leading up towards Sunbeam Lake. After the first portage, the route becomes interesting. Marshes everywhere and it was unclear which way to go. You really have to look for the slow flow of the water to eke out an idea as to where upstream is. Be prepared for some turns around marshes and deciding between ramming through narrow/shallow sections or carrying across. It's a maze of sorts. If the weather wasn't so miserable and if we weren't pressed for time to get to camp before light fades, this should actually have been quite fun.
Our second portage took us to Sunbeam Lake, and just as we were appearing at the end of the portage trail, the sun came through the clouds for the first time that day. Sunbeam Lake lives up to its name. There are 2 campsites on islands on Sunbeam Lake. The more easterly one appears to be superior but it was already occupied when we arrived. We were kind of not in the mood of looking around anymore, so we settled for a site on high ground on the south shore with a west-facing view off a cliff. The other island campsite (which we visited the next day) faced east. Depending on the wind direction, bugs and temperature, one could be better than the other. The island one had more space. As it turned out, it got rather cold for two evenings in a row and we probably made the wrong choice of campsite. Fortunately I had lots of warm clothing with me. I could hear the ice and snow falling on my tent fly Saturday night and snow squalls were a regular feature for most of Sunday morning.
Sunday night seemed like an endless echo of strong winds blowing from the west. When we woke up Monday to a chilly morning, we were worried that we would have another difficult day ahead of us. Fortunately, the sky cleared up by about 11, and we had an excellent paddle out with the wind behind out backs and what seemed in contrast to the two days before, wonderful partly cloudy weather. We even had ample time to take pity on those paddling our way upwind. Stopping at Wilno Tavern for delightful polish food on the way back capped a trip I would not want to have missed, despite the almost wintry weather in May.
We arrived at Canoe Lake at about noon. The rain had stopped, but the persistently overcast sky suggested that more might be to come. The wind had also subsided a little but it was still going to be a tough paddle upwind all the way to Sunbeam Lake. We decided to make a go of it. After all, the weather forecast was for sunshine on Monday.
The paddle up Canoe Lake was not easy (read: extremely difficult for novice paddlers) with the gusty North-westerly bearing down our way. Despite the bad weather, I was pretty confident about getting to the campsite by six. Exactly one year ago, we did a trip up to Littledoe Lake without much difficulty and Sunbeam Lake looks just a little further with two more portages through Vanishing Pond. Hopefully the pond will not vanish on us, but we were told that at this time of the year, water levels should be high enough for it to be navigable.
It wasn't much fun paddling in this weather, no fun at all. Overcast, gloomy, windy. Well, we got to the eastern end of Littledoe Lake and paddled into the creek leading up towards Sunbeam Lake. After the first portage, the route becomes interesting. Marshes everywhere and it was unclear which way to go. You really have to look for the slow flow of the water to eke out an idea as to where upstream is. Be prepared for some turns around marshes and deciding between ramming through narrow/shallow sections or carrying across. It's a maze of sorts. If the weather wasn't so miserable and if we weren't pressed for time to get to camp before light fades, this should actually have been quite fun.
Our second portage took us to Sunbeam Lake, and just as we were appearing at the end of the portage trail, the sun came through the clouds for the first time that day. Sunbeam Lake lives up to its name. There are 2 campsites on islands on Sunbeam Lake. The more easterly one appears to be superior but it was already occupied when we arrived. We were kind of not in the mood of looking around anymore, so we settled for a site on high ground on the south shore with a west-facing view off a cliff. The other island campsite (which we visited the next day) faced east. Depending on the wind direction, bugs and temperature, one could be better than the other. The island one had more space. As it turned out, it got rather cold for two evenings in a row and we probably made the wrong choice of campsite. Fortunately I had lots of warm clothing with me. I could hear the ice and snow falling on my tent fly Saturday night and snow squalls were a regular feature for most of Sunday morning.
Sunday night seemed like an endless echo of strong winds blowing from the west. When we woke up Monday to a chilly morning, we were worried that we would have another difficult day ahead of us. Fortunately, the sky cleared up by about 11, and we had an excellent paddle out with the wind behind out backs and what seemed in contrast to the two days before, wonderful partly cloudy weather. We even had ample time to take pity on those paddling our way upwind. Stopping at Wilno Tavern for delightful polish food on the way back capped a trip I would not want to have missed, despite the almost wintry weather in May.
Sunday, September 11, 2005
Barron Canyon - light team route
Camping on Opalescent Lake on the Barron Canyon route did not disappoint. I was part of a light team of four who drove to the park on Saturday morning and put-in at Brigham Lake in order to maximise the chances of getting two of the best campsites on Opalescent Lake for Saturday night. After a short P200* from the parking lot, a short paddle down a really shallow section of the river to Brigham Lake, and a P730, we were at Opalescent Lake. As it turned out, we managed to take over the reputed "flintstones" campsite from the people who were just about to leave when we got there at about half past twelve, and secured the campsite opposite it on the north shore of the lake as well. This campsite is one of a kind, as some people a long time ago must have decided to build this unique kitchen/fireplace out of rock, complete with seats for eight.
It was a beautiful day for a little paddle around the lake, and a swim, before the main group who put-in at Grand Lake early that morning after camping Friday night at Achray arrived later in the afternoon.
And by the way, we met pirates as we arrived on Opalescent Lake. Honest! They were flying the Jolly Roger and even put up a sail (although I think the wind was going the wrong way so they were have having a tough time paddling forward). They were headed for Cork Lake, which was going to be out of character with its usual quietude that night judging from the amount of Captain Morgan's they had with them. You probably won't believe me until I post a picture, so wait till I get my hands on one.
On Sunday, we took the P730 back to Brigham Lake, followed by a P100 and a P440 in quick succession past rapids into the Barron Canyon. There is a good rock outcrop about 1 km into the canyon on the north bank of the river to have lunch and swim. It is near where the Barron Canyon Trail runs above. This is where we basked in the sun and looked up the face of the canyon walls. After lunch, we continued on a leisurely tailwind-assisted paddle through the rest of the canyon and the flats beyond to the take-out at Squirrel Rapids. We were out of the water by 4 pm. Only the car shuttle remained.
*P200 is a portage of 200 metres.
It was a beautiful day for a little paddle around the lake, and a swim, before the main group who put-in at Grand Lake early that morning after camping Friday night at Achray arrived later in the afternoon.
And by the way, we met pirates as we arrived on Opalescent Lake. Honest! They were flying the Jolly Roger and even put up a sail (although I think the wind was going the wrong way so they were have having a tough time paddling forward). They were headed for Cork Lake, which was going to be out of character with its usual quietude that night judging from the amount of Captain Morgan's they had with them. You probably won't believe me until I post a picture, so wait till I get my hands on one.
On Sunday, we took the P730 back to Brigham Lake, followed by a P100 and a P440 in quick succession past rapids into the Barron Canyon. There is a good rock outcrop about 1 km into the canyon on the north bank of the river to have lunch and swim. It is near where the Barron Canyon Trail runs above. This is where we basked in the sun and looked up the face of the canyon walls. After lunch, we continued on a leisurely tailwind-assisted paddle through the rest of the canyon and the flats beyond to the take-out at Squirrel Rapids. We were out of the water by 4 pm. Only the car shuttle remained.
*P200 is a portage of 200 metres.
Monday, May 23, 2005
Littledoe Lake - Algonquin Park
This lake is worth a second visit. Perhaps then, we'll have more time to explore the long narrow bays off the east side of the lake that I see on the topo map, instead of heading out instinctively to the west in the direction of Tom Thompson Lake as we have done.
It finally looked more like wilderness country after about a couple of hours canoeing from the Canoe Lake put-in, first passing the cottages (for the Singaporeans, read bungalows), and then the boys and girls camps, to relatively uncivilised territory where we spent relaxing the rest of Saturday, and exploring all of Sunday.
Most of Algonquin Park is extremely organised in order to prevent camper destruction of the natural environment. Campsites are clearly marked and equipped with thunder-boxes (i.e. outhouse without roof and walls, just a cover) so that irresponsible campers do not do their personal business at random spots and leave toilet paper all over the place, which I heard is the case at certain other parks. The only thing we came across that was not on the map was a beaver dam, which needed to be traversed by getting out of the canoe.
We camped at the entrance to the lake at a very large campground with tent pads overlooking the entrance to the lake over a steep cliff. Great spot so long as you are not expecting strong winds, as the higher elevation minimises bugs. There is a 30m walk up from the take-out to the campsite proper, which is fine for this time for the year, but not as nice if swimming at the campsite is on the agenda. The water is still too cold for swimming at the moment. I can swim with my 3mm neoprene farmer john wetsuit on, but I find my exposed arms freezing up...
Time to head home now. It was a wonderful trip. Back to the evil? city. I'm going to miss the peace and quiet.
It finally looked more like wilderness country after about a couple of hours canoeing from the Canoe Lake put-in, first passing the cottages (for the Singaporeans, read bungalows), and then the boys and girls camps, to relatively uncivilised territory where we spent relaxing the rest of Saturday, and exploring all of Sunday.
Most of Algonquin Park is extremely organised in order to prevent camper destruction of the natural environment. Campsites are clearly marked and equipped with thunder-boxes (i.e. outhouse without roof and walls, just a cover) so that irresponsible campers do not do their personal business at random spots and leave toilet paper all over the place, which I heard is the case at certain other parks. The only thing we came across that was not on the map was a beaver dam, which needed to be traversed by getting out of the canoe.
We camped at the entrance to the lake at a very large campground with tent pads overlooking the entrance to the lake over a steep cliff. Great spot so long as you are not expecting strong winds, as the higher elevation minimises bugs. There is a 30m walk up from the take-out to the campsite proper, which is fine for this time for the year, but not as nice if swimming at the campsite is on the agenda. The water is still too cold for swimming at the moment. I can swim with my 3mm neoprene farmer john wetsuit on, but I find my exposed arms freezing up...
Time to head home now. It was a wonderful trip. Back to the evil? city. I'm going to miss the peace and quiet.
Saturday, May 21, 2005
Tom Thompson Cairn - Canoe Lake - Algonquin Park
If you have never visited Tom Thompson Cairn on Canoe Lake, make it a point to stop there on the way to whatever lake you are headed to. All it takes is a little scrambling up a few rocky steps (about 10m elevation). The totem and cairn in honour of the great Canadian artist Tom Thompson who drowned mysteriously in Canoe Lake provide us a moment to reflect on the grand Algonquin landscape that was the subject of so many of his paintings. It's also a great photo op.
Friday, May 20, 2005
Canisbay Campground - Algonquin Park
Arrived at Canisbay campground, which is an OK place to stay for the night if you are looking for a convenient place near the Canoe Lake put-in for next morning's trip into the park interior, but be prepared to turn in late...
On this long weekend Friday evening, there's quite a queue at the campground office crowded with 20 people inside. Some were waiting in line to get checked in, while others were coming in to ask for firewood and what not.
When it was our turn, the young lady at the counter had trouble with the computer system. Apparently, the program would not allow her to simply move someone from one campsite to another. She had to do a delete, followed by an add.
Once we were underway, we drove to the car-camping ground, set-up the tents under the illumination of the headlights, and was soon in bed. However, sleep did not come easy. Our neighbours were having a party, and a rather loud one at that. And as far as I can tell, the party ended at about 2 am. So much for the lights out rules at these campsites. Not a pleasant experience for me at all. It reminded me of East Coast Park in Singapore. I did not come to Canada or all the way to Algonquin Park to be reminded of the high-density and overcrowded place I evacuated from.
Perhaps the other smaller campgrounds along highway 60 are better than Canisbay, but for now, I am looking forward to the Algonquin interior. BTW, there is cellphone reception here (I'm using Bell Canada), but please turn it off unless you really need it.
On this long weekend Friday evening, there's quite a queue at the campground office crowded with 20 people inside. Some were waiting in line to get checked in, while others were coming in to ask for firewood and what not.
When it was our turn, the young lady at the counter had trouble with the computer system. Apparently, the program would not allow her to simply move someone from one campsite to another. She had to do a delete, followed by an add.
Once we were underway, we drove to the car-camping ground, set-up the tents under the illumination of the headlights, and was soon in bed. However, sleep did not come easy. Our neighbours were having a party, and a rather loud one at that. And as far as I can tell, the party ended at about 2 am. So much for the lights out rules at these campsites. Not a pleasant experience for me at all. It reminded me of East Coast Park in Singapore. I did not come to Canada or all the way to Algonquin Park to be reminded of the high-density and overcrowded place I evacuated from.
Perhaps the other smaller campgrounds along highway 60 are better than Canisbay, but for now, I am looking forward to the Algonquin interior. BTW, there is cellphone reception here (I'm using Bell Canada), but please turn it off unless you really need it.
Granary Schnitzel House - Eganville
Be sure to stop by the Granary Schnitzel House in Eganville on the way to Algonquin Park (if you are coming from the east side). Great schnitzel, good beer, nice patio, or if you prefer the dining room is immaculate too.
I've also been told that the tavern in Wilno, Canada's oldest Polish settlement, has excellent Polish food. Definitely next in line on my places to stop on the way to/from Algonquin.
I've also been told that the tavern in Wilno, Canada's oldest Polish settlement, has excellent Polish food. Definitely next in line on my places to stop on the way to/from Algonquin.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
